The Wool Food Mama

Owl (or cat) Sewing Instructions

Some time ago, I made an owl for Gusty.  Since then, at Gusty's request, I made a cat friend to go along with C. C. Ally.  Here are the instructions if you'd like a scrappy cat or owl too.  C. C. in this picture is sporting a headband made by Gusty so her ear tufts are hard to see. 

1.  Cut a strip of wool (or woven fabric) 8.5 inches wide by roughly 12 inches long.  You'll need 12 inches for the 3-section cat, less for the owl. 

2.  Fold in half lengthwise and sew, making a tube.

3.  Center the seam down what will be the back of the critter.

4.  Use the round edge of a jar or can as a template for the ears, mark with a pen.

5. Sew along your pencil line and trim away excess.

6. Turn right side out and stuff the head until it is about 3.5 inches from the top (ears) seam.

7. Cinch down the neck. You can do this one of two ways;
-Hand-sew a running stitch and cinch tightly, use a locking stitch (or several) to set the neck.
-take a strand of floss and tie it tightly.  You may need an extra set of hands to help set a knot.

8. Before you stuff the body, decorate the face.  Use a doll head needle and start your stitching through the neck. Sew in the nose or beak, I used a satin stitch.  Cut wool felt circles, add buttons first (to the wool felt), then secure to the face.  I used a running stitch for the eyes. 

9. Stuff the body.  Decide now if you'll be making an owl or cat.  You'll do a finishing stitch now for the owl or add another segment for the cat.  This is why the tube is roughly 12 inches long,  I left a lot of room for variations.  You'll trim off quite a bit of excess for the owl. 

10.  To close the bottom, set a running stitch where you'll cinch the bottom closed, Before tying it off, cut away excess fabric leaving  1 inch from your running stitch.

11.  Tuck in raw edges and pull thread tightly, closing the tube.  Set a locking stitch or two or three.

Add a tail or wings. Or not?

For the tail, cut a strip, no particular size, just eye ball it (remember, scrappy cat or owl)  fold in half and secure it's shape with a running stitch. Attach to the cat. 

For wings, cut a circle, fold in half, sew around the edge with a running stitch, attach with your preferred stitch at the neck.

meow.

hoot.

Child-size duct tape dress form instructions part IV

Part I

Part II

Part III

38.  Using your tissue pattern pieces, cut out front, back, arms and neck pieces.  Remember your note to add a seam allowance an inch and a half to the bottom of the front and back pieces.  This is to make a drawstring closure around the bottom.

39.  Mark darts on the back of pattern.

40. Fold on center line, sew on curved line.

41.  Check fit.

42. Trim away excess fabric in pleats and darts.

43.  Sew up just half way the back or leave a side seam partially open so you can fit the cover over the form later

44. Attach front to back at shoulders.  Right side together.

45. Check fit. Sew up side seams.

46.  Fit arm and neck holes.  Use your pins or it won't fit.  

47.  Fit on to the form.  This is where it was a good idea to leave a back or side seam open. close open seams with a ladder stitch.

48. Use running stitch and set in a drawstring.  You could do a casing if you wanted but I'm working against time and growth here with a child size form. lol.

49. Done!!

Child-size duct tape dress form instructions part III

Continued Part II

I decided to draft the fabric cover in tissue paper instead of muslin.  It drapes well enough and is easy to tear and mark as needed.  For speed you know, considering the child may very well have gone through a growth spurt shortly after completion.  Anyway...

21. Make arm and neck templates. 

I traced around the form (or you can use your existing templates from the cardboard if you saved them) and add a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Or whatever allowance you prefer.  Just make sure you're consistent with your seam allowance throughout the project.

Add dots or dashes around the pattern using a 1/4 inch ruler or compass set to 1/4 inch. 

Then connect the dots.

Cut out template and check fit.  Misspell pattern pieces in your haste

23.  Mark your form with shoulders and a center line (front and back) to help with pattern draft.

Now, if you're really following along and this isn't just for my own future reference, this is typically where all of the (lack of?) skills and reasoning and frustration with traditional patterns  brought you.  To build in 3 dimension, not 2 dimension.  This...this is precisely where my accomplished sewing mother closes her eyes and looks away.  Smiles and nods, or maybe shakes her head a bit.

Disclaimer aside, proceed with the fabric cover with  whatever methods you prefer, or continue along, by making marks on your form for the shoulders and (front and back) center.

22.  Fold tissue paper in half or make a center line, pin it to the front of the form.

23.  Pin around the neck. Fold aound the neck to generate a guide/pattern line.

24. Fold over the paper to match the shoulder marks that you made previously.

25. Lose control of camera to husband...
 

 

26. Mark sleeve, bottom and side seam. I'm working just one side of the pattern now. 
 

27. Remove and fold in half on your marked center,  shoulders should nearly or perfectly match. Cut out one half and trace to the other half to make it one complete pattern piece.  You could work on the half or fold but we'll be checking fit, so a full front works better in this instance.

28.  Cut it out and check fit.  If you can go ahead without making this a two-piece pattern front or an under arm set in, proceed.

29.  Moving to the back, set tissue paper on the center like on the front.  The back will be a two-piece pattern so folding won't be necessary....

30.  Trim away excess on the bottom immediately 

31.  Fold shoulder to meet front piece or the mark made on the form.

32.  Pull over the front pattern piece and mark side seam.  Mark sleeve and neck seams as well.  Pin and secure.
 

 

33.  Pinch in to make vertical dart, using pins to hold and mark the sew line.

34.  There is also a horizontal dart needed at the waist, pinch, pin and mark as well.

35. remove and mark all pinned darts with a marking pen if you haven't done so already.   Remove pins and smooth out patterns.

36. Make note to self.

37. Make another note to add and inch and a half to the bottom of both patterns.

Part 4 (the fabric cover)  is all photographed.  Just need a breather.  Back tomorrow.

Part IV

...and Part I can be found here.

Child-size duct tape dress form instructions part II

Continued from Part I

18.  Hug test.  Ok, now give your work a hug.  No really.   Oh don't be shy, no one's looking....and it's your child's model after all.  lol. Does it feel just like your little one?  ok good.  Success in size and shape.  Before we move along, I'll admit, I had a creep feel for a split second until I realized it was exactly her size and this just may work!!! glee.   ok, moving along.

19.  Apply spray adhesive.

20.  Apply batting.  snip, fit, tuck and smooth.  I used up some quilting scraps and filled in with wool batting.  You don't want to add too many pounds to your child, but you do want to be able to use straight pins so choose your batting accordingly.

and another view.

Next up, the cover.  I will probably do this in two layers.  One I'll sew directly on to the form and a second that will be a pretty slip cover.  I'm not positive yet....I'm blogging as I progress on this so it doesn't turn into another wip.  So, plans could change. But that's the intent right now. 

My motivation and intent is changing somewhat.  I started out yesterday looking for an affordable solution to patterns.  I *really* don't sew well from a pattern.  But a dress form is simply the bomb for me.  Drap, cut, sew, swoon.  Anyway, I didn't want to invest a lot of time or effort into this because I know gusty will grow. 

Now though, I may just slow down and deck out the slip cover in some favorite fabric.  This piece may be a fun thing to pull out 10 years from now as decor for her bedroom ya know.  Look at how tiny you once were....

Ok, more soon. 

Part III

Part IV

Child-size duct tape dress form instructions part I

I really want to make one for myself, but thought I'd start on a smaller scale by making a form of Gusty...

**side story here, if you want to make one of those priceless visa commercials for yourself, do this;

buy a roll of duct tape *5.00*
ask your husband if he'd be willing to wrap you up in it.  *free*
expression on his face. *priceless*

Ok..here it is on the cheap.  REAL cheap.  The child is only going to be this size for another half of a year, maybe a hair more, after all.

Supplies
duct tape
card board (pizza boxes)
big rock, sort of flat
old t-shirt
clean plastic bag
spray adhesive
thin batting
old plastic bags for stuffing
packing peanuts (not required, if you have enough old bags, that's ok)

Prep
1. tie up long hair or it will get stuck in the duct tape.
2. put on a tv show for bribery
3. precut several strips to get you started

Instructions

1. Have child wear old tshirt.  you're eventually going to cut the form off of them and may nick the shirt.
2. cut head and arm holes into clean plastic bag and slip over child.
3. start taping.  (through my own trial and error, I found that a long strip around the waist and over the shoulders would have been a better place to begin.) 
4.  After you have waist and shoulders in place, use shorter strips  6-8 inches long, start from the top and spin the child as you add tape.

Annoyance will set in just before you're completed....but we managed a happyish smile no less.

Working around the stomach and butt was difficult.  She has no concept of suck it in but when I did work around the bottom of her belly, she automatically drew in her stomach.  This is just the price of working with a five year old.

5.  Cut straight up the back and then remove the form.

6.  Use small strips of tape to tape it back together.

7.  Hang the form so that you can add tape to the bottom to kind of level it off.  If I just stopped, without adding leveling strips, my form would have been tilted forward.  Which would affect drape and skirts later... 

before leveling

After...

8.  Set the form on a piece of cardboard to make a base template.   I used four layers of cardboard so cut 4 total.

9.  Tape and/or glue the four layers together.

9.  Tape a rock or scrap of concrete to the base.  I'm undecided about using a stand so I wanted it weighted so it doesn't fall over on me while I work.

10.  Tape the base inside of the bottom of the form.

11.  While holding a piece of paper against the arm hole, draw a template.  Use this template to make a cardboard insert.  Mine worked for both arms.  Repeat for neck hole.

12.  check the fit and adjust as needed.

13.  Trace two armholes from cardboard and cut out.

14.  Tape into place. Leave neck open for stuffing.

15.  Start stuffing through the neck hole. .  Use plastic bags at the base, to fill in snuggly around that rock.  Then top with peanuts if you have them, of use bags exclusively.

Note, you may get some dents even after you fill it up with peanuts.  Use plastic bags to push those out by shoving plastic down the inside wall. 
 

16.  Cover the neck.  What I did was place a few strips on the back of the insert so I could pull up the cardboard if it fell into the form.

17.  Tape it all up...

Continued tomorrow.....

Part II

Part III

Part IV

Terrarium instructions

Remember all those bottles & jars from the auction?  Well, I've been having the best time transforming them into moss terrariums.  The kids helped a bit but, after one or two, they lost interest.  I, on the other hand, peacefully sat and made about a dozen of them. serious therapy.

Supply List:

• Pea rock.  Rinsed and still wet
• Potting soil.
• Moss
• Dry sphagnum moss.
• Assorted spoons and skewers.
• Assorted Jars with covers

Fill a clean jar, about 1/4 to 1/3 full of (still wet) pea rock.  I use wet rock because it seems to be just enough moisture to start out the terrarium.  It's easy to over water, so I just start with wet the rock and skip watering completely.

On top of the rock, add a very thin layer of dry sphagnum moss.  It's purpose is to help keep the soil from settling into the rocks.  It's easiest if you pre-shape it. If you just push it into the jar, you'll have stray dry strands sticking out all over the place.  Take a small amount, flatten between your hands, then fold under the strays so that you have a circle of sphagnum...like a sphagnum pizza. lol.  Place it into the jar on top of the rocks.

Add potting soil, about an inch deep.

Now you're ready for your green moss.  I keep about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of original dirt attached to the bottom of the moss chunk.  If there's a small plant growth in the moss, like grass or a tiny weed, I leave it, just to see what happens.  Drop it into the jar and use spoons or skewers to position it. Once positioned, gently push it into the potting soil.  This is a good time to be handy with chopsticks.

You can add some larger rocks, marbles, or broken shards of terra cotta pots for "decoration" but it's not required of course. 

Cover and place in bright, indirect, sunlight. 

In about a day or so, your terrarium may look like it's about to rain.  I leave it be for several days and see if it adjusts its moisture content on its own.  If it still looks too wet after 5 days, take the cover off for a few hours, then replace it.

It should be wet and start regulating itself but with a new terrarium, the goal is to avoid mold growth. Once it finds its own balance, watering will be rare. 

Sources:
Pea rock.  I got a gallon bucket from the garden supply center for 40 cents but you can find it at playgrounds or pet shops too.
Moss.  Check the northside of your own house, along the foundation, you may find a little pocket of moss.  Otherwise, head for a creek bed or heavily wooded forrest.  Some garden centers will sell it too.
Sphagnum.  I raided a handful from the fake ficus tree stuffed in the corner. lol.  Also available at craft shops and garden centers. 

After they're a couple of weeks old, you should know if they're going to make it and can start sharing them with friends.  They'll live and die and change, so don't be discouraged, just plant another.

Instructions for wet felting a wool ball...with a bit of needle felting.

Basic supplies:
*felting needle(s). 
*foam pad.  I use chair pads from joanns. This pad is your work surface, a place for the needle to land.  If the needle goes all the way through your project (and it will) you don't want to have your needle tip hitting a hard surface.  The needle(s) will ruin the surface and the needle tips can break. *** This supply is required if using needles.
* wool.  batting/roving.
*section of of lycra nylon/tights

Basic safety.
*keep your work on the foam.  Don't get in the habit of picking up the project with one hand while needle felting with the other.   You're sure to stab yourself. 
*listen to tv but do not watch tv while you felt.  You may *think* you  have great depth perception and spatial awareness, even while looking away...you don't.  You will learn this after felting a thumb to your project.
*do not share needles.
 

Simple Combo (needle and wet) ball.

#1 Take a chunk of wool batting and pull it into 2 pieces
#2 make one piece a ball(base) and leave the other piece flat

#3 place the ball onto the flat wool batt

#4 Draw up the the flat piece like a pouch around the base and needle felt into a ball.  ***the barbs on the needle force the fibers to join together. ie felt.

#5 (optional only if you're wet felting) place ball into a section of lycra tights.  You can use pantyhose but the lycra gives up the wool easier.  Once tied up at both ends, send it through the washer. For a front loader, I've experienced good felting at warm.  For a top loader, I prefer hot on high aggitation.  Remember, once you felt you can't go back.  You can get a harder felt, but not a softer one.  So you may want to experiment with settings to get your desired felt density.

#6 Remove felted base from stocking and place on a  smooth out section of roving.  Roll the base up in the roving.

#7 felt into the shape of a ball again.

#8  Start adding your decoration.  I recommend using LIKE FIBERS if you're wet felting.  Don't mix batting and roving here.  Personally, I don't even mix breeds.  I've found you get a cleaner felt if you don't cross breed. lol

sailboat and tree

#9 Place back into the tights and send through the washer again.

#10 wet ball fresh from the washer...set on top of the dryer to dry.

More examples of the same process....

My Bucket Bag Pattern.

This is a simple lined bucket that's been designed to be rigid enough to stand on its own, yet pliable enough to be folded for easy storage.  Additionally, the use of heavy-weight fabrics, rather than paper-like interfacing, allows for great recovery even after folding/storage. Significantly reducing  memory fold-lines.

Recommended Fabric
Duck, heavy twill, drill, canvas

Pattern (top to bottom)
Lining. 29.25" x 9.0" Cut 1
Exterior A.  29.25" x 6.5" Cut 1*
Exterior B. 29.25" x 3.5" Cut 1
Handle. 24" x 2.5" Cut 2
Base. 9" diameter Cut 2
Note:  Interior, handle, base, and Exterior B are all the same fabric. The only contrasting fabric I use is for Exterior A.
*modifications for Exterior A.  If you opt for a light or medium decorative fabric, interface with a layer of duck.  I recommend sewing/basting decorative fabric to duck, rather than an iron-on interface.  It provides an easy and informal look to the bucket.  It also minimzes fold lines later after bucket has been stored.

Assembly
Handle: 
*1/4 inch seam allowance. Sew right sides together,leave one end open, turn, topstitch.  I personally prefer to do the button holes last only because I generally can't pick buttons before hand. 
Exterior:
*1/2 inch seam allowance.  Fold Exterior A in half length-wise and sew right sides together, press open seams. Repeat for Exterior B.
*Face Exterior A & B making sure that seams line up.  Insert unfinished end of strap between both enterior pieces.  Centered between seams of  exterior pieces.  Sew together. 1/2" seam allowance.

*press adjoining seam to one side and topstitch. 

Joining exterior base to exterior walls: 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Right side to right side.Mark the quarters on the circle with pins. Do the same with the exterior.  Match up quarter marks on base and exterior and pin together.  Gently ease pieces together adding more pins.  *note.  I can about guarantee that these pieces will not fit together if you don't "pre-ease" using pins, so do this step.  I strongly dislike ripping seams. lol.

tips:  I sew so that the base is being fed with my feed dogs. Some are more comfortable having the dogs help the ease along, I like having top control of the walls so I can adjust the fabric easier.  Also, clip base seam allowance or trim closely, whichever you prefer.

Interior wall:  1/2 inch seam allowance.  Fold in half length-wise, right sides together, sew together but leave open at pin marks in photo.   This is where you'll pull the bucket right side out later.

Adjoining interior base to Interior wall: 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Right sides together.  Repeat instructions above from exterior assembly.

Joining Interior and Exterior.  1/2 inch seam allowance.  Right side to right side, making sure handle is tucked in, sew together.  Turn bucket out through the opening you left in the lining.  Top stitch where interior meets exterior, catching the handle in the topstitch.

*Ladder stitch close the interior opening.

Buttons:  Decide size and placement.  I like to have the end of the handle rest right at the top of the bottom of exterior.  But I'm anal like that. lol. Anyway, I'm leaving this up to artistic expression, maybe you wanna run 6 buttons up the side. :o) 

Finally, easy folding....
Collapse one half into the other half

Fold bottom up flat

Fold in each side to the center and fold the handle down over folds, flip and button.

Patchy Produce

I spent the last several days patching and sewing a new line for my shop and had such a good time that I decided to share the instructions here for anyone that may want to give it a whirl. 

Pattern.
From left to right, tomato, apple, leaf. 
I don't have instructions for my tomato yet.  That will have to come later...for now, just the apple, orange or whatever round fruit you prefer.
It's difficult to read but the grid is a 1 inch square. 
Apple piece, cut 5.  It measures 5.75" x 2.5"
Leaf piece, cut 2

Sew right sides of apple pieces together leaving a small opening along one seam for turning right side out and for stuffing.

Stuff and use a ladder stitch to close the fruit.

Leaf.  Sew right sides together as marked on the pattern piece, turn right side out and close with a ladder stitch.

Using a doll makers needle and STURDY floss attach the leaf.  I usually start from the top.  Needle enters top (leave a long tail on the thread at the top), pass through bottom, back into the bottom, back up through the top.  Catch the leaf on the way up and tie.  If you're not accustomed to a hard tie down, an extra set of hands may be useful to hold your knot.  I generally secure 1, 2 and sometimes 3 times this way.  Dependant on the age of the child that the intended produce is for. 

Continue tying square knots until you have about an inch of knot.  Fold it over and tie it once more at the base of the knots so you have a stem. 

Re thread on to the needle and draw one set of ties to the bottom of the fruit. Repeat for 2nd set of threads.  Tie a final knot and clip threads.  A drip of fray check doesn't hurt on that final knot.